Me gots a MOMO

[See Flat]

As I posted elsewhere, my wife bought me a Momo for Christmas. I'm hoping that you guys might be able to make this painless. Do I have to go through all kinds of motions and tests and trials to get this working or can you guys using a momo just give me a quickstart!

Any pointers or help would be appreciated. I certainly would not want to get frustrated to the point of not wanting to use it!!!

Im asking ahead of times, as I've already seen in the package that no mention of macs in here at all. Just PC installs.

thanks ahead of time.

SF

[DonaemouS]

the best thing, is someone using momo, posting his setup in preferences...

nice xmas gift

[leoantix]

what a good wife ... cheers!

indeed logitech never considered mac users when it came to user goodies ... just plug in and let redline recognize it, both lights on front should glow once redline is loaded

here is a shot of my redline prefs with the momo ... make sure to grab gamepad companion (http://www.carvware.com/gamepadcompanion.html) to stick that PTT TS button on the wheel somewheres



and btw, give it plenty of time ... will be at least a few weeks before you feel comfortable with the momo and redline

[alphonse]

Wow SF,

cheers to you and your wife. A nice gift for your for sure, showing acceptance of all time you are spending with the community.

I bought a momo some month ago. My bad it did never work (2nd hand, me unlucky). It simply did not get power but as an USB-device was known by the mac. So - without Force Feedback and any helps of the wheel itself - i had some laps. And its totally different as it comes to driving redline.
If my momo were working and my wife would share your wifes good feelings about a momo i would have spent the time to learn it.

Good luck - and have fun,
alphonse

[Toad]

Good for you See,

Leo's info is all you really need to get going, but here's a couple of additional tips.

Probably, you won't be much better with the wheel right away (you might be a little slower) give it a week or so and can you expect to see results. Try a few laps on tracks with fast long radius turns, that should give you some initial positive feedback on what the wheel does well. You may find that you don't need to choose cars that oversteer quickly.

Leo's settings, are the extreme, I have my steering tolerance set two clicks to the right of his. I can't go straight when set where he has it. Same gas tolerance as Leo. Can't see Leo's FFB setting but I think he uses the max. I'm about 2/3. A good tip from Dandy a while back was to turn the FFB down a bit to help with wheel turning speed. Keyboards have a real advantage here.

A Leo/Giles tip for after you have driven the wheel for a while is to place a squishy ball ( like a sqaush ball) directly behind and under the fulcrum point on the brakes. Gives better feel than the stock with much less movement.

Alphonse, maybe your wheel is like mine: it takes two attempts to make the connection through the usb port. It's connecting to the computer when the wheel rotates on it's own back and forth one time. If it does not connect correctly it's like losing power steering in a real car.

[alphonse]

Good for you See,
Alphonse, maybe your wheel is like mine: it takes two attempts to make the connection through the usb port. It's connecting to the computer when the wheel rotates on it's own back and forth one time. If it does not connect correctly it's like losing power steering in a real car.

Thank you Toad for the tip - it sounds like a great adventure...
I tried connecting it on 4 macs and never saw any light after starting up Redline, neither did it ever rotate by itself. Permanent loss of power steering

alphonse

[See Flat]

Good for you See,

Leo's info is all you really need to get going, but here's a couple of additional tips.

Thanks Leo, did get me started real quick and all worked. Man.. this is so much more work than a gamepad. I'm tired after a few races.
Thanks toad of the extra info. I will investigate your alternate settings just to see the difference and see what I prefer. And yes, leo's FFB is on full.

SF

[DANDY]

got a wheel

awesome!

I use a mix of toad and leo's....lower ffb most of the time, full steering sensitivity now, though I initially started one tick down. I use separate gas/brake (you need to turn this off to calibrate), and traction assistance is off. These settings make driving tougher but more rewarding imho.

quick tip: dont turn too far....full lock is rare for me.

[See Flat]

got a wheel

I use separate gas/brake (you need to turn this off to calibrate), and traction assistance is off. These settings make driving tougher but more rewarding imho.

quick tip: dont turn too far....full lock is rare for me.

Thanks D

All I need is something to make driving tougher! hehehe Seriously, I do appreciate all input and I think this will be my next step will be fiddling with settings to see what makes it comfortable for me. I'm finding everything a grind right now. Really hard. With leo's settings, I was physically tired after a few races. Damn FFB was very tiring. Maybe a brand new momo has stronger pull than one with a rubber ball under the gas pedal!

Hope everyone will be kind to me... I'm worst than a noob on the track right now.

SF

[Brook]

As I posted elsewhere, my wife bought me a Momo for Christmas...

That is one considering wife you got there.
(what did you get for her? - no need to answer that)

You're used to a gamepad and you now have to make more movement (travel) to achieve the same things you're accustomed to. You also have the added bonus of force feedback, which gives you more information about the grip the tires have on the road.

Advice 1: For the time being, turn down the force feedback to a level where it is barely noticeable. You're not used to ffb, so you won't miss it, thus it makes sense to get that out of the equation while you're getting used to the amount of movement you need to make with your wheel and pedals. And it requires a lot less effort to turn that wheel around. You can crank it up later.

Advice 2: The hardest part of a wheel/pedal combination is getting the "feel" into your feet, especially the throttle pedal. Because the springs of the pedals are so light compared to the counterpressure you experience in a real car, it's very hard to judge how much throttle or break you actually apply. This is where the rubber squash ball mentioned earlier fits in. If it's allowed in your househould (and by the temperature), take off your shoes while driving.

Advice 3: Make sure you have a solid base to attach the wheel to. Have you figured out the three way clamping system yet? I ask, because it isn't uncommon for people to overlook the two hidden clamps. Make sure the pedals can't slide on the floor. The latter can easily be solved with antislip products.

I do have an "absolute beginner crash course" for getting used to any type of controller in Redline, but I never got the guts to publish it, because it is definitely boring. If you feel your progress doesn't keep up with your ambitions, give me a "call". You might be the first to test this beginners course.

[See Flat]

That is one considering wife you got there.

I had mentionned not to be scared to get me something expensive, totally useless that i was too reasonable to get for myself

Advice 1: / Advice 2: / Advice 3:

Your advice makes perfect sense to me, and yes, I had no idea there were two extra clamps. Wheel was not moving though, but perhaps only because I'm not in an exciting tournament at this time Pedals are secure.

I'm finding full throttle particularly tricky. It was easy before not pressing the button for certain cars. Now I'm spinning out a lot.

Thanks for the tips.

[Brook]

I'm finding full throttle particularly tricky. It was easy before not pressing the button for certain cars. Now I'm spinning out a lot.

Just to make sure, when you're on analogue controls, the full throttle button no longer serves a purpose, because pressing the throttle all the way *is* full throttle.

Having said that, a word on Traction Assistance:
- Without TA, you are in full control over the amount of gas you apply to your engine. This is the closest approximation to real life (obviously). It is important use the right amount of throttle (not too much and not too little) to avoid spinning out. This setting is more difficult and requires more time to master.
But, it also enhances your entire experience of the available cars.

- With TA ON, Redline helps you when you apply the wrong amount of throttle so you won't spin. Within limits that is, but the tolerance is simply greater. However! Redline does not help you when you fully press the gas pedal. If you do that, it will be the equivalent of the full throttle button.

I assume that, at the moment, you drive with TA on. Just keep in the back of your head, that a fully pressed gas pedal will unleash every cubic inch of power the car has, Traction Assictance or not. Learn to use the throttle pedal as, well, a pedal instead of an on/off "switch".

[See Flat]

...the full throttle button no longer serves a purpose, because pressing the throttle all the way *is* full throttle.
...I assume that, at the moment, you drive with TA on.

I figured out my pedal to the metal was full throttle, but did not have TA on... I will give that a try now.

thanks

[Speeddemon]

Wheel was not moving though

Redline does not have a very good FFB, and the wheel will only try to center, so FFB will be forcing to the center, wherever that is set to. Most games, such as Colin McRea Rally or Ford Racing 2, have better FFB.

[Brook]

Wheel was not moving though

Redline does not have a very good FFB, and the wheel will only try to center, so FFB will be forcing to the center, wherever that is set to. Most games, such as Colin McRea Rally or Ford Racing 2, have better FFB.

This almost sounds like you've switched ffb off.

Are you telling that your wheel doesn't become "light" when your tires loose grip? That, when you crash into the wall, it doesn't rattle from left to right?

[See Flat]

Wheel was not moving though

Redline does not have a very good FFB, and the wheel will only try to center, so FFB will be forcing to the center, wherever that is set to. Most games, such as Colin McRea Rally or Ford Racing 2, have better FFB.

This almost sounds like you've switched ffb off.

Quote out of context.

I had no idea there were two extra clamps. Wheel was not moving though,

I meant, even without the two extra clamps, the wheel was not moving on my desk while I was driving.
FFB is working fine.

SF

[Speeddemon]

Wheel was not moving though

Redline does not have a very good FFB, and the wheel will only try to center, so FFB will be forcing to the center, wherever that is set to. Most games, such as Colin McRea Rally or Ford Racing 2, have better FFB.

This almost sounds like you've switched ffb off.

Are you telling that your wheel doesn't become "light" when your tires loose grip? That, when you crash into the wall, it doesn't rattle from left to right?

Not really in Redline, but it's been a while, maybe I have forgotten. I remember well though, that it has not as much FFB usage as games like Ford Racing.

quote out of context

Whoops, I seem to have missed that. Maybe I shouldn't post before I wake up.

[Sponsored content]